Traveling to Japan - May 2025

 We have just returned from a two week trip to Japan. We started in Tokyo for five days, then went to Kyoto for five days and then back to Tokyo for a few days before coming home.

Here's the unwritten rules on being a tourist in Japan:

Walking on the sidewalk

• Generally, walk in a single file line on the left hand side of the sidewalk. We were mainly in bigger cities and the sidewalks are not huge, plus people are riding bikes on there, so stay to the left and don't make a wall blocking the sidewalk. Everyone is trying to get somewhere quickly and try to stay out of the way. Occasionally, you'll need to swap sides, but keep an eye on pedestrian/bike traffic and stay out of the way.
• Never eat or drink while walking (or on the train, except for shinkansen). If you need to eat or drink something, get out of the way, find a spot and eat/drink, then put it away and keep moving. 
• Don't stare at your phone while walking. Again, pull over, figure out what you need to do, then keep moving. If you're looking at your phone, you won't see the bike coming at you!
• Don't just stop. Just like driving in the US, be predictable.  

 

Money Stuff

• ATM - Make sure you have a 4 digit PIN for your bankcard. Taking out money from an ATM is your generally a good exchange rate. 
• Cash - Carry cash with you at all times. A lot of restaurants don't take credit cards. You will need cash to load money onto your IC/Suica/PassMo card (if you're using one).
  
• Wallet - Bring a wallet that lets cash lie flat. If you don't have one, you can buy one at a Daiso for not a lot of money. 

 

Hybrid Kimchi Recipe

I love the taste of homemade kimchi, but it can be quite time consuming, mostly from the first part - salting the cabbage, which using the Maangchi recipe, takes hours. While on a flight, I watched a Masterclass episode about fermented foods and the chef, David Zilber, did a very quick kimchi using a 2% ratio of veggies to kosher salt. I tried his recipe, but didn't care for the flavor, so I combined his salting technique with Maangchi's general recipe (with some adjustment, mostly removing ingredients I don't care for) and it worked out great.

I gave some to my friend's mom and she asked for the recipe, so I just went through the whole process of writing it up for her, so figured I would post it here for anyone who is looking for a quicker way to make kimchi that will definitely taste better than store bought.

Email to my friend's mom:

The main recipe is from Maangchi, my favorite Korean chef. Here's a link with a video showing generally how to make it. The biggest modification I've made is in the first part of the process - the salting of the cabbage. Her recipe calls for 6 lbs of cabbage, but that's a lot of kimchi, probably too much for most people, so I halved it.

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Modified Kimchi Recipe (half recipe)

Veggie Ingredients

• 1 head napa cabbage (roughly 3 lbs, but any size is fine)
• Kosher salt (roughly 1/4 cup, but you will weigh on a scale)
• 1 cup Korean radish (mu) or daikon radish
• 1/2 cup carrot matchsticks
• 3-4 green onions (scallions), chopped
• 1/2 cup chopped Asian chives, or add 2 more green onions

Porridge Ingredients

• 1 cup water
• 1 Tbsp sweet rice flour (aka glutinous rice flour)
• 1 Tbsp turbinado sugar (or brown or white sugar)

Seasonings and spices

• 12 garlic cloves
• 1 tsp ginger
• 1/2 medium onion
• 1/4 cup fish sauce
• 1 cup red pepper flakes (gochugaru 고추가루, coarse bigger flakes, not a fine powder). I usually look for one that is sundried.

Steps:

Start by making porridge first because it needs to cool down:

1. Combine the water and the sweet rice flour in a pot that looks bigger than you'd need because this will usually bubble up. Mix well with a wooden spoon and let it cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes until it starts to bubble.
   
2. Add the sugar and cook for 1 more minute, stirring. Remove from the heat and let it cool off completely.

Prepping spices

1. I usually put the garlic, ginger, and onion into a food processor and run it until it's very minced. This is easier than chopping everything by hand. It's almost like a paste consistency.
2. Put minced spices into a big bowl that you will later use to mix up the whole thing, so a big bowl.
   
3. Add fish sauce and red pepper flakes.

Prepping veggies

1. Slice the napa cabbage into quarters lengthwise, then proceed to chop those quarters into 3 cm wide strips. Remove the cores.
2. Place your large mixing bowl with the spice mixture on a scale and tare it to zero grams.
3. Transfer all the chopped cabbage to the mixing bowl.
4. Add the cut radish, matchstick carrots, and green onions to the bowl.
5. Note the weight (in grams is easiest) and calculate 2 percent of that weight in salt. Add the salt to the bowl, and proceed to mix everything together thoroughly until all the ingredients have been moistened and well mixed.
6. Put mixed well kimchi into a container and if possible, put a weight on top to keep cabbage submerged. If you don't have something for this, you can use a ziploc filled with water.

Notes on fermentation (copied from Maangchi's website)

The kimchi will start fermenting a day or two at room temperature, depending on the temperature and humidity of your room. The warmer and more humid it is, the faster the kimchi will ferment. Once it starts to ferment it will smell and taste sour, and pressing on the top of the kimchi with a spoon will release bubbles from beneath. If you’re using a sealed jar with a lid, be sure to open it once a while, let it breathe, and press down on the top of the kimchi.

Once it starts to fermented, store in the refrigerator to use as needed. This slows down the fermentation process, which will make the kimchi more and more sour as time goes on.

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That's it! If it ends up being too much, my favorite other things to make with kimchi are kimchi-jjigae (shortcut here is buying anchovy broth bags or tablets so you can skip making the anchovy broth), kimchi pancakes, and kimchi fried rice.